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Journal

Journal

On auberges, and life in Atsuma

Writing from Mori no Auberge Mitsu

How to enjoy an auberge, how to choose an inn in Hokkaido, and the ingredients of Atsuma.
Pieces we hope you will read before you travel, written a little at a time.

The setting of Mori no Auberge Mitsu

Edo-Era Theme Park

Noboribetsu's Edo-Period Theme Park and What It Costs

Noboribetsu Date Jidaimura is a theme park that recreates an Edo-period town. It has an indoor theatre, so it works even on a rainy day. Here is this stop near Mori no Auberge Mitsu.

Inside Mori no Auberge Mitsu

Crafts in Biratori

Ainu Crafts and the Museum in Nibutani

A guide to the Nibutani Ainu Culture Museum in Biratori, Hokkaido, where folk tools and crafts are on show. See Nibutani-ita and Nibutani-attus, the first crafts in Hokkaido named traditional crafts, up close.

The shore of Lake Utonai

Lake Utonai

When Swans Come to Lake Utonai

Lake Utonai is a water-bird lake where swans and geese arrive. Here are its Ramsar figures, the birds by season, and how to reach it in about 30 minutes from Mitsu.

The Chitose Salmon Aquarium

Chitose Salmon Aquarium

Fees, opening hours and the autumn salmon run

A window looks straight into the Chitose River, and in autumn you can watch salmon climb it to spawn. The Indian water wheel stands in the river too, about 50 minutes by car from Auberge Mitsu.

A view of Mori no Auberge Mitsu

Journal — Noboribetsu

Noboribetsu Jigokudani in autumn, and its free-to-walk spots

Noboribetsu Jigokudani is a crater about 450 metres across. See its autumn spots, the parking and the small geyser Tessen-ike, then drive back to the forest at Auberge Mitsu for a quiet night.

Autumn colour on the hills around Lake Shikotsu

Autumn Foliage Guide

Autumn colour spots an hour from New Chitose Airport

A guide to the autumn colour you can reach within an hour of New Chitose Airport, with the peak dates. Lake Shikotsu, Eniwa Gorge and Aoba Park are all usually at their best from mid to late October, with Mitsu about 30 minutes away as your base.

Lake Shikotsu ringed by hills

Atsuma Day Plan

Ordering a day from Lake Shikotsu to Atsuma

After you land at New Chitose Airport, where should you stop before check-in? This plan orders Lake Shikotsu, Lake Utonai and more by drive time from the inn, so you reach the 15:00 check-in in good time.

Dinosaur fossils on display at the Hobetsu Museum in Mukawa

A Day Toward Hidaka

A base for Mukawa's dinosaurs

About 30 minutes from New Chitose Airport, a quiet stop on the way to Hidaka and Mukawa's Hobetsu Museum.

The setting of Mori no Auberge Mitsu

By ferry to Mitsu

18 minutes from the port, a stay before or after the ferry

About 18 minutes by car from the Tomakomai ferry terminal. Whether you have just landed or sail the next day, the timing fits. Three rooms a night, with a Hokkaido kaiseki dinner.

The setting of Mori no Auberge Mitsu

Weekend from Sapporo

75 minutes from Sapporo, a forest inn for the weekend

About 75 minutes by car from central Sapporo, in the town of Atsuma: a small auberge with three rooms and three groups a night. For a weekend, trade the city for a quiet forest and a night with no television, and a Hokkaido kaiseki dinner.

Mori no Auberge Mitsu and its surroundings

Shishamo of Mukawa

A rare Hokkaido fish, and a fishery now suspended

Shishamo lives only on Hokkaido's Pacific coast, and is the town fish of nearby Mukawa. The season ran about 40 days, but the fishery has been suspended since 2023. Here is what makes this fish rare, drawn from public records.

Mori no Auberge Mitsu, in the forest of Atsuma, Hokkaido

The bath at Mitsu

A private bath, not a hot spring: what to know

If you are searching for a hot spring, read this first. Every room has its own goemon-style soaking tub, heated, and there is no shared bathhouse.

Kochia Hills turning deep red in autumn

Yuni Garden in Autumn

Kochia turning deep red in an English-style garden

Yuni Garden is an English-style flower garden in Yuni, Hokkaido. Its Kochia Hills, with 32,000 plants, turn deep red in October. It is about 45 minutes by car from Mitsu, an easy stop before check-in.

A plate of curry rice made with hokki clams

Hokki in Tomakomai

Tomakomai's Hokki and Hokki Curry, No.1 in Japan

Tomakomai landed about 750 tonnes of hokki clams in 2024, the most of any municipality in Japan. Try the local hokki curry by day, then drive about 40 minutes to Mitsu. A plan for autumn into winter.

The setting of Mori no Auberge Mitsu

Getting to Mitsu

From the airport to the inn by rental car

There is no shuttle, so you rent a car at New Chitose Airport and drive about 30 minutes. Here is the exit at the Atsuma interchange, the address for the sat-nav, the parking, and when to arrive.

A view of Mori no Auberge Mitsu

Reservations at Mitsu

Why a meal-focused inn closes cancellations early

Mori no Auberge Mitsu takes three groups a night, by reservation only. Because ingredients are bought in for each booking, cancelling is free until four days ahead, then rises step by step. Dinner is at 18:00 and the last check-in is 19:00.

Mori no Auberge Mitsu

Staying with Children

What to know before booking with children

A small auberge in the forest of Atsuma, Hokkaido, taking three groups a night. For those thinking of a stay with children, we set out honestly what suits and what does not, and the size of the rooms, before you book. There is no television in the rooms.

Ripe blue-purple haskap berries

Haskap Picking

Haskap Picking in Atsuma Starts in Late June

Atsuma grows the largest area of haskap in Japan. Picking usually runs late June to mid-July, and each farm opens on different days. The farms are about 15 minutes away by car, easy to fit into your stay.

The Japanese breakfast at Mori no Auberge Mitsu

Breakfast at Mitsu

Pot rice and dashi-broth rice: why the breakfast is loved

The word guests use most about the food is the rice cooked in an earthenware pot. Breakfast brings that pot rice, a free-range egg omelette, and dashi-broth rice you finish yourself, treated here on its own.

Autumn colour on the hills around Lake Shikotsu

Autumn Around Mitsu

From Lake Shikotsu foliage to Atsuma's golden paddies, by car

Lake Shikotsu, an hour by car from Auberge Mitsu, turns colour in autumn. This guide gathers three Hokkaido autumns—the foliage, Atsuma's golden paddies and the salmon run up the Chitose River—with drive times.

Rice ears ripened to gold

Rice of Atsuma

Atsuma's Sakura-mai Rice and the Golden Autumn Paddies

Atsuma is rice country, and its Sakura-mai brand is really Nanatsuboshi rice. In autumn the paddies turn gold. Mori no Auberge Mitsu cooks this rice in an earthenware pot for breakfast.

Hokki curry made with hokki clams

Lunch around Mitsu

Atsuma Gourmet Guide: Lunch Stops, Travel Times and Dinner at the Inn

Check-in at Mori no Auberge Mitsu is from 15:00, so your arrival day has an open midday. Here is where to eat around Atsuma, from Kobushi-no-yu Atsuma to hokki curry in Tomakomai, with drive times from Mitsu.

The setting of Mori no Auberge Mitsu

Budget at Mitsu

What a two-meal rate includes, and what it does not

An auberge rate brings your room and your meals together in one figure. Here is how to read a two-meal price: what the rate covers, the lodging tax and cancellation terms, and the option to come only for dinner.

What is an auberge — the Japanese creative course

What is an Auberge

What is an auberge? The meaning, and the difference from a hotel or a ryokan

An auberge is a house where the cooking comes first. What the word means, and how it differs from a hotel or a ryokan, explained simply.

How to choose an auberge in Hokkaido — the lounge that opens onto the forest

How to Choose

How to choose an auberge in Hokkaido

The cooking, the location, the rooms, the price, the size. Five things to look at so you do not regret the choice, and how to choose by purpose.

Ingredients of Atsuma — Mailabuta pork

Ingredients of Atsuma

Ingredients of Atsuma: pork, rice, hokki clams and haskap

Mailabuta pork, Nanatsuboshi rice, the seafood of the Iburi coast, and haskap berries grown here on the largest planted area in Japan. The gifts of Atsuma that fill our course.

An inn with no television — a star-filled sky above the forest

Digital Detox

A digital detox, at an inn with no television

There is no television in the rooms. Turn the screen off and the sound of the forest comes through. A night away from screens, at a hideaway that takes three groups a night.

Forest bathing from the room

Forest Bathing

Forest bathing: a night in a Japanese oak wood

Open the window and the forest is right there. Herbs from that forest go into the bath. Forest bathing that lasts the whole night, in the way only Mitsu can offer it.

A quiet inn — a tatami room lit softly through shoji screens

Quiet Stay

For those looking for a quiet inn

Three groups a night, no television in the rooms, a Japanese oak forest all around. What is inside a hideaway that has quiet built into its design.

A solo stay — the window seat in Ki

Solo Trip

An inn for solo travel in Hokkaido

We welcome guests travelling on their own. A full Japanese creative course and a goemon-style tub in your own room, for time entirely to yourself.

Guides to staying and exploring

Pages that show how to spend your time at Mitsu, according to what brings you here.

Staying in a 120-year-old farmhouse  /  The forest herb bath and the goemon-style tub  /  An inn for anniversaries  /  30 minutes from New Chitose Airport  /  Staying in Atsuma  /  What guests say

Spend a night at Auberge Mitsu

A stay in the forest of Atsuma, Hokkaido, with the cooking and the quiet at the centre.

Book on CHILLNN

Rates, availability and plan details are shown on our official booking site (CHILLNN), which has an English version.