Journal | 2026.09.01
This journal gathers the autumn around Mori no Auberge Mitsu into three things: the foliage at Lake Shikotsu, the golden paddies of Atsuma, and the salmon coming up the Chitose River.
Autumn colour has a short season, and searches for it cluster into those few weeks. If you decide where to go before the leaves turn, the day itself runs more smoothly.
All three lie within a car ride of Auberge Mitsu, so this guide gives the drive times as it goes.
Lake Shikotsu, a clear caldera lake in autumn colour
Lake Shikotsu sits in Chitose, a caldera lake known for its clear water. In autumn, the hills that ring it turn colour.
It is one of the season's best-known places for foliage. From Auberge Mitsu, it is about 60 minutes by car.
For other seasons and nearby sights, see the Around page.
Atsuma's paddies, turning gold in autumn
Atsuma is rice country. It grows the Sakura-mai brand of Nanatsuboshi rice.
In autumn the ears ripen, and the paddies spread out gold. New rice and other local produce are sold at Kobushi-no-yu Atsuma, among other places.
For more on what Atsuma grows, see the Ingredients of Atsuma page.
Salmon coming up the Chitose River
Chitose Aquarium is among the largest freshwater aquariums in Hokkaido. It has a window that looks straight into the Chitose River.
In autumn, the salmon come up that river. Through that window, you can watch them make their way upstream.
From Auberge Mitsu, it is about 50 minutes by car. You can watch the river in autumn from indoors, through the glass.
Drive times to and from Auberge Mitsu
Lake Shikotsu and the aquarium in Chitose are both within a car ride of Auberge Mitsu. Atsuma's paddies lie right around the inn itself.
In a single autumn day, you can pair a few of these together. The table below gives the drive to the inn, and the drive on to each place.
| Route | By car |
|---|---|
| New Chitose Airport to the inn | about 30 min |
| Atsuma interchange to the inn | about 15 min |
| The inn to Lake Shikotsu | about 60 min |
| The inn to Chitose Aquarium | about 50 min |
An autumn night at Mori no Auberge Mitsu
Auberge Mitsu takes three groups a night, in three rooms named Ki, Mi and Tsuki.
The building is a 120-year-old farmhouse, built in the traditional style of Toyama and raised again here. Its thick central pillar and beams are joined without metal fittings.
Every room has its own goemon-style soaking tub in Shigaraki ceramic ware. It is not a natural hot spring but heated water, and there is no shared bathhouse.
Dinner is an omakase kaiseki course that follows the Hokkaido season, and breakfast is served too, except on room-only plans. There is no television in the rooms, and Wi-Fi is available in every one.
The guide price is from about 28,000 yen per person with dinner and breakfast, based on two people sharing a room. Rates are subject to change; please check the booking site before you travel. From here it is about 30 minutes by car to New Chitose Airport and about 15 minutes to the Atsuma interchange; for directions see Access, and to read about staying quietly in the forest see Forest bathing.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Lake Shikotsu from the inn?
From Auberge Mitsu, Lake Shikotsu is about 60 minutes by car. It is a clear caldera lake in Chitose, and in autumn the hills around it turn colour.
What is autumn like in Atsuma?
Atsuma is rice country, and in autumn the ears ripen and the paddies spread out gold. It grows the Sakura-mai brand of Nanatsuboshi rice, and new rice and local produce are sold at Kobushi-no-yu Atsuma, among other places.
Where can I see the salmon run?
Chitose Aquarium has a window that looks straight into the Chitose River. In autumn the salmon come up that river, and it is about 50 minutes by car from Auberge Mitsu.
Can I use the inn as a base for autumn sightseeing?
Auberge Mitsu is about 30 minutes by car from New Chitose Airport and about 15 minutes from the Atsuma interchange. Lake Shikotsu is about 60 minutes away and Chitose Aquarium about 50, so you can tour the autumn sights by car. There is parking for 10 cars, free for guests and with no reservation needed.
Related: Around / Forest bathing / Ingredients of Atsuma / Access | Back to the journal